February 22, 2008

A Flaming Duck?






Celebrating "Democracy Day" in Santaneshor.



Finally, a picture of the infamous daal bhaat. Please focus in on the proportion of the rice. This now lends complete credibility to all my daal bhaat horror stories.



There she is....my cackling, host Granny or "Hajur Aamaa" as we say in Nepali.




Some sweet peace in the Garden of Dreams, Kathmandu...spent the afternoon reading "An Ordinary Person's Guide to Empire" with a pot of Jasmine Tea. I highly recommend it as must-read for any American...it will seriously tick you off because what she is implying unfortunately is really quite true and it's tough to face the harsh truth of it. It's sobering.



Internet in Nepal has bit the dust for the last week... It took me an hour and a half just to upload these few pictures...alas, I guess will write my musings next week. The latest word is that I'm doing a bit of traveling starting next Friday, and that I've accepted an offer to work at a health clinic 2 hours north of Pokhara. I understand that name means absolutely nothing to all of you. But to me, that actually means that I will be moving to the "Switzerland" region of Nepal (it totally cracks me up that they compare it to the Alps, when the Himalayans are in an entire league of their own). I'll be living way up in the Himal and working at a much poorer clinic; this translates as: more hands-on clinical time for me. So I'm checking out for a couple of weeks here for hiking, paragliding, safari time at the Royal Chitwan NP, some strong yak milk, and a whole lot of richness in the everyday work here in Nepal. Until the next time, friends...Shanti.

February 15, 2008

The Beautiful People...of Nepal


Just realized that I had yet to put a picture of the clinic where I work. So here is a shot of Maternal and Child Health Day at the clinic. I'll try to get a picture of the silo where I live next week. And maybe a picture of the lovely crazy Granny if I'm lucky :)


This little boy stole my heart.

We gave them prizes for bringing healthy lunches to school.


Another group of seriously adorable kids.



This photo was taken of me in Thamel right after I came to the sad realization that I have Giardia. I'm not sure why I look happy.


Another sari shot with a bit more of the Nepal countryside where I live.





My un-Day Off in Thamel. I escaped for an evening of pizza. Hurrah!


At the Santanesor Hindu Temple....after 300 stairs to the top. Somehow my camera got switched to "Snow" setting, and so I'm positively glowing white in this picture.


Continually amazed by the beauty of the people that I've become dear friends with here. Just some more pictures from this past week...really short on time for internet these days.

I still miss you all like crazy and love hearing all the happenings and exciting updates from home to still feel some semblance of normalcy. It sounds like so many of you have had some really exciting changes in your lives recently. Keep me informed. I'm reading emails faithfully and loving all the scoop I get. :)
There is a growing list of things that I really miss about home such as real dill pickles, caramel macchiatos, Tivo, my Macbook, being able to listen to music, sleeping in a bed with a duvet, having normal hair, and chips and salsa. Haha.
I'm learning a little bit about the phases of language acquisition...up until this last week I felt that I was beating my head against a wall despite my hours of studying and week's worth of lessons. But some little light inside my head finally came on, and my speaking abilities have finally taken off. I can converse so much more comfortably now and can almost fully comprehend all that is being spoken. I can't figure out what finally changed, but it has been a huge reward this week. I think I have finally charmed by aggressive heavy-handed host mother by speaking a lot more Nepali with her, and now I will catch her just staring at me while I eat my breakfast with the biggest smile on her face. I never was given the time of day from her before. On the other hand, I'm not quite sure if she has completely charmed me with her habitual way of hocking lugees from the third story window of the kitchen onto the ground below where people are passing by.
Just another glimpse of my mornings in Nepal. I've finally adapted to the steaming heaps of daal bhaat for both breakfast and dinner. Forget the days of porridge and Special K, I eat a mountain of white rice with grey lentil matter and some curried vegetables as well as a stack of 4 slices of toasted white bread (yes, it's disgusting) and milk tea. Believe me, I know how bad this is for me but I don't dare cross "Helga", my host mother by asking for anything else. I have to run 3 miles every day to keep the weight off from the most carb diet I have ever been on.

Here's a little bit more news from my side of things... I've finally narrowed down a bunch of travel dates for those of you who have mentioned coming along for different parts. I've finalized the Everest Base Camp Trek for April 11-25, and have booked it with my friend Mani from Great Adventure Treks and Expedition. April 26-May 3: I have booked a week in Tibet and am in the process of getting the visa. May 4: Ellie has decided to join me in flying to Bangkok for a few days and then onto Krabi for a week's worth of climbing around Railley Beach. Anyone else who will be in the area around May 6-13 is more than welcome to join in the pretty phenomenal climbing agenda. I'm still working to square away dates for the rest of Southeast Asia. Drop me your suggestions and ideas....I am really welcoming recommendations.
Until the next time...Blessings!


Getting Over the Language Hurdle


At Kopila's home on Valentine's Day.

The women in Nepal continually amaze me by their strength of character.




The strangest Valentines Day pretty much ever. Kopila, on the right, is one of my favorite Nepalis. She us to come visit her home in a village about an hour's walk from Chapagaon and then insisted that we wear saris while drinking tea with her. I don't think I've laughed that much in a long time.




My new haircut. I look about 17 years old now. Awesome. It must definitely reaffirm my patients' faith in my clinical abilities.
With some of my students. I look tired.

Eternal Shalom School: My Health Education Class for Nursery Students


Dinner at the Hyatt with Lynn and Ellie.

Pretty much the essentials to an amazing day.

Kicking it at the Hyatt's pool. 70 degrees and February.
I don't get a day off this week--working a full 50 hours. Awesome. So this is going to be short and sweet until I get a real day off.


And Nepal is getting ready to switch to 12-hour black outs for electricity. I guess it's time to buy a whole lot more candles.


And just a warning that you're going to be seeing lots of pictures of adorable Nepali children on my blog from here on. I adore them. Outpatient Pediatrics has been my absolute favorite department at the clinic.

I believe Granny (if you missed her cackling, asthmatic debut appearance in my chronicles of Chapagaon, check out my blogpost entitled: "The SevenFold Path to Enlightenment...or Perhaps Amoebic Dyssentery") has truly lost her mind from the crazy strong drugs that she's taking for her musculoskeletal pain and COPD. The latest development this week was that every time I got up in the middle of the night to go to the bathroom, Granny would wake up and decide to use the bathroom as well. I don't get it. This lady goes to bed at 8 pm, and then she would still get up at 1 am. So last night I went to the the bathroom and locked the door, and sure enough I heard Granny's door creak open and her shuffle over to the bathroom door where she proceeded to try yanking it open with all of her frail strength, wheezing with the effort. When she finally realized that I was in there after I said "I am in here" in Nepali repeatedly, she decided to flip the lights off on me and went to a fit of wheezing hysterical laughter. I wasn't too thrilled, because the last place that I want to take a chance in the dark, is a squat toilet. She thought it was hilarious. I kept saying, "Ma yahaa chha" in case she hadn't heard me the first dozen times, but no, she was in asthmatic hysterics over her little joke. Finally, she flipped the light back on, talked to herself in the hallway for a good couple of minutes and then shuffled back to her room, quite pleased with herself. Just another night at the silo.

February 10, 2008

This Weekend...

http://kathmandu.regency.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels/index.jsp
Here's the link to the hotel where we stayed this weekend for all of you who are interested.

I'll post the rest of my pictures of my little retreat next weekend when I get back to Kathmandu.
Hope you all have a fantastic week!

February 8, 2008

Low-Altitude Sickness



Another shot of my view of the Himalayas from my house (click on it to make it larger).


I had to take one picture of myself that sums up my week's emotions.

The migrant childrens' school that I'm coordinating the School Health Program for in Chapagaun.


A little bit of a sweet escape after the past week's happenings: the five-star Hyatt-Regency

Ellie and I kicking back at the Hyatt after our miserable week.

Views of the Hyatt's sprawling grounds and pools.

Our simply amazing room.



A Nepali student teaching me a traditional Nepali dance.

Students who I will be teaching Health Education to.

Another shot of the migrant children's school.

Shot of the Himal from my bedroom window in Chapagaun.






Hindu Holy Man at Pashupatinath Temple.

One of my latest favorite reads written by Muhammed Yunus of the Grameen Bank.

Hanging out with Pramila.






Community Health visits to a very remote village in the hills surrounding Chapagaun.













It had been such a trying week for both Ellie and I that her incredible boyfriend (back in California) decided to book us two nights at Nepal’s only five-star hotel, the Hyatt-Regency in Bodhnath. When Ellie told me what he had done, I nearly broke down in tears. Ellie found out that she has Giardia, and I was relentlessly stalked by one of the PAs at the clinic where I work. It really came as such a sudden shock when I finally realized what was going on. I had been assisting this individual at the clinic for the past several weeks with a great deal of respect for his gift in medicine and was completely blown away when everything started to unravel. Before I knew it he was planning our future life together in Nepal and asked me if I would fulfill his one wish by giving him one child. All I could do was laugh thinking that he had to be completely joking, but then I stopped laughing when he launched into a five hour monologue about how his love for me would conquer all despite our backgrounds that are worlds apart. This occurred when I stupidly agreed to visit the Dutch NGO that he works for part-time with him one evening after work. This turned out to be part of an elaborate plan to whisk me off to Kathmandu in order to profess his undying love for me and to strand me at a shoddy hotel in one of Kathmandu's sketchiest neighborhoods in the middle of one of the country's 8-hour black outs during the night. Since Nepal is in the middle of a fuel shortage crisis, bus services have been severely cut. At the same time electricity is cut off for eight-hour blocks during the day and night. Therefore, I had no choice but to spend the night in the city since there were no more buses running that night and it was an unsafe neighborhood to catch a taxi alone back to Chapagaun. And Murphy's Law just continued to snowball: of course there was only one room left at the hotel with two twin beds. I felt like my worst nightmare would never end as I had to sit in a shoddy hotel room with no electricity and listen to him drawl on and on about how we were a match made in heaven and how he had already told my host family that we were already engaged. Basically, they were ready to roast the fatted calf, put the red tika on my forehead, and bless our new life together. It took five hours in a pitch dark filthy hotel room of me trying every excuse in the book about why we couldn't marry each other and why I didn't love him to finally convince him that we were only friends. Even after that he still had the nerve to ask if he could sleep in the same bed with me. I don't think I've ever been more enraged in my entire life. I felt that I had been tricked, lied to, and that he had tried to take advantage of the reputation that American girls are "easy".



After a night of living through a virtual nightmare, we finally caught the first bus back to Chapagaun the next morning in stony silence. During the bus ride, I kept running through all the reasons in my mind why I still loved Nepal and why I was glad to be in this country. I kept telling myself there are so many beautiful values in a country with such a strong Buddhist influence as we passed billboards flaunting messages such as "Peace and Tranquility". Just about the time that we passed the second Peace and Tranquility billboard, our bus came to an abrupt stop and before I knew it the kid who worked as the bus' money collector was on the receiving end of one face blow after another. Another bus' competing money collector had jumped on board and was beating the crap out of the bleeding kid, and no one even budged. No one even turned their heads or even flinched. Finally the bus started moving again and life went on as usual as if nothing had ever happened while the kid's blood continued to pool on the bus' floor and even he didn't seem to bothered by the fact that he just had the living daylights punched out of him. "Where the heck am I?" I thought, still sitting by the man who had tricked me into a night of living hell and relentless marriage proposals.


February 1, 2008

Some More Pictures From the Last Week









Just letting you all know that I'm only able to check my email and update once a week when I come into Kathmandu for my day off. So I will slowly try to keep posting pictures week by week to give you a glimpse into my little world over here. :) I have cell phone now as well so I'll be sending out an email with the phone number if any you get the strong inclination to give me a ring sometime. It would seriously be like music to my ears to hear from you. :)